Blue Bus Tour
Brisbane to Carnavon Gorge
Sunday, 21 June - Friday, 26 June
Day 1: Depart Roma Street at 7:55 am
Brisbane - Miles
On a chilly and cloudy Sunday morning, we were picked up promptly from Roma Street Station, where we met Tour operators Sandra and Geoff, who own and run Blue Bus Tours (BB).
On the way to our first stop, Geoff impressed us with the bus we were travelling in. Since both Geoff and Sandra have been in the business for impressive years, they knew what they wanted when they had this beauty purpose-built. The chassis was made in Sweden (having been involved with Mack Trucks in a previous life, I know where the chassis is), the body in South America, and the interior was fitted in Brisbane. No comfort was spared. Behind the driver's side of the bus are extremely spacious 2-seaters, and on the other side, 1-seaters, thus providing wider seating. Sandra handed us seat cushions with our names on them, and the seat rotation allowed everyone to get close to the front. Being a former school principal, she was extremely well organised, thought of the finer details, like a personalised coffee mug, and had everything under total control.
The bus is fitted with the latest safety features unique to this bus, hereafter referred to as AA (Azure Ark), such that if the driver blinks too often, indicating signs of fatigue, the sensor will raise an alarm. It also has an anti-rollover device and other features I can't recall, other than to say we felt extremely safe, secure, and comfortable. I just thought of another unique feature, which I will save for later, when I actually see it in action.
Spacious interior
Short break at Haigslea
...where we initiated our personalised mugs
The flat-topped mountain of Meeba (seeing place)
Until our next stop, the mike was passed around for fellow travellers to tell us a bit about themselves and their travels. I was astounded by the number of return travellers, a testament to the varied and interesting trips you can take with BB over the years.
Chinchilla
Geoff informed us that Cypress pines, a valuable timber resistant to termites, were instrumental in establishing the sawmilling industry that helped found the town of Chinchilla, which is now home to coal seam gas mines. The Chinchilla Botanic Parkland has a historic link to the township's early days, as it is located on the site of the original railway depot connecting Chinchilla with Brisbane.
The concrete siding wall is the last remaining relic of the critical rail infrastructure that was connected to the main track by a spur line. The wall and associated timber sheep and cattle yards contributed greatly to the area's economic growth, with thousands of livestock from the district being railed to Brisbane. The original journey by steam locomotives from Quilpie to Brisbane took around 70 hours (with a 25-hour rest period in Chinchilla).
The watermelon is the official symbol of Chinchilla, which is famously known as the 'Melon Capital of Australia'. The region produces a large share of the country's watermelons and celebrates its agricultural heritage with a giant landmark and a large watermelon community festival.
Caught the moment when the water splashed
Dare one join in the watermelon festivities in this state's present policed milieu, when this fruit's political connotations as a recognised symbol of Palestinian solidarity and resistance could get you arrested were you to be dressed as one? I wonder, which came first: Chinchilla or Palestine?
Watermelon fields forever...
We had a delightful lunch at Dalby, checked into the Swagsman Motor Inn in Miles, and had dinner at the Queensland Hotel.
Day 2: Monday, 22 June
Miles - Carnarvon Gorge
Wallumbilla
After breakfast at the Swagsman Motor Inn, we headed off to Calico Cottage at Wallumbilla for morning tea, where signs warn you of snakes, which have been sighted in this area.
RNM can't help himself. He's checking to make sure Geoff fitted the right number of tyres.
A lovely bench
The Wallumbilla District was first served by bullock teams and waggons. The construction of the railway line in the 1890s opened up the area, changing the rural community. Dairying, small crops, cattle, and sheep were the main original industries, with beef cattle and winter crops now mostly supporting the town.
The good old days? Makes you appreciate the comfort of our AA
The first section of the Western line to Dalby was part of the original Southern & Western railway scheme and opened to Jondaryan on 18 November 1967 and Dalby on 16 April 1868.
The line to Roma opened in sections from 1878 to 1880. In 1881, Wallumbilla recorded a total of 65 passengers for the year. Until 1891/2, it was only described as a stopping place, until a contract was drawn up for station buildings in the same year at a cost of £655.00.
RNM is looking for the dipstick
RNM is checking for coal
Roma
After lunch at Café on Second, in Injune, we stopped in Roma to admire and get close to Roma's largest Bottle Tree, which has a girth of 9.62 mtrs, a height of 15 mtrs, and a crown of 23 mtrs. It was transplanted from a local property to this site in 1927. The Bottle Tree can live naturally for over 200 years.
Roma is at the northern end of the Murray-Darling Basin, beside Bungil Creek, a tributary of the Balonne River, which runs into the Darling River before entering the Murray River and heading out to sea near Adelaide. Roma is 299 m above sea level with spectacular scenery along the Great Dividing Range, less than 80 km to the north and northeast of the town. We travelled 476 km by road from Brisbane and are just over 1000 km from where the Queensland, South Australian and Northern Territory borders meet.
The landscape surrounding Roma is formed on Cretaceous sedimentary rocks laid down as sandy and silty beds in various streams and lake environments during the age of dinosaurs, and subsequently buried deep in the earth. Erosion and weathering of exposed beds of these sedimentary rocks have formed the current landscape, which consists of undulating plains and low hills. The soil produced from this weathering process includes fertile clays that support a productive cattle industry. Stay tuned for our return trip, when we'll visit the largest cattle saleyard in Australia.
Six Australian bustards
En route to our next stop, Geoff regaled us with tales that connect cattle, bales of hay and a square meal. It all made sense and was quite humorous. He also enlightened us about the circumstances of how he and Sandra met, which involved a bit of slave trading, travel, shining a light, romance and lots of fun. You have to hear it firsthand to fully appreciate it. 😍
We arrived and checked into our home for the next 3 nights.
Because this was our home for the next 3 nights, it warrants a closer look.
Getting closer
We had a delightful dinner at the Wilderness Lodge, where cute Elliott from Paris poured my wine, a cheerful chef from Indonesia prepared our meal, and a charming waitress from Belgium served it, after which we retired to our luxury tent.
Day 3: Tuesday, 23 June
Carnavon Gorge
Blue skies, the sun won the battle with the clouds
Carnarvon Gorge
After breakfast at the Wilderniss Lodge, we started our guided walk with Simon from Carnarvon Gorge Eco Tours to Moss Garden, 3.5 km from Park Headquarters.
Simon revealed the fascinating secrets of the surrounding bush, pointing out a tree that had traditionally been used by Aboriginal women for abortive purposes, and by men for reproductive regulation. The mechanics of these methods gave me goosebumps, leaving me to marvel at their ancient, profound knowledge of bodily functions that would give any modern urologist pause.
At Moss Garden, a layer of impervious sandstone pushes out a crystal-clear stream of water, filtered by porous sandstone, which fosters an abundance of ferns and mosses. A picturesque waterfall pours gently into the waterhole.
Moss Garden
Home again for a relax before another delicious dinner
Day 4: Wednesday, 24 June
Nyanda Station
Walk to Mickey Creek / Rock Pool
Leaving our cabin on a glorious day for another adventure, for a morning visit to Nyanda Station
Welcomed by Cathie and Christian for morning tea, we learned about the history and management of their property, set against a backdrop of an ancient landscape.
Nyanda Station is a mountainous 38,500-acre working cattle property, sharing a large border with Carnarvon National Park. It has been family-owned and operated for three generations, with a steadfast commitment to rearing Droughtmaster cattle. The rugged terrain of Nyanda is characterised by stunning sandstone cliffs that have stood the test of time, as well as spring-fed creeks that flow year-round.
the formation of the shells is prominent
Ancient footprints
The plant that survived the Permian era's massive destruction of our Earth
Christian explaining his findings
Christian enthusiastically imparted his connection with paleontologists from Harvard and Central Queensland University, who had just left the property, taking finds from their digs back for more research and analysis. Exciting times are ahead for him and Cathy.
Back at our cabin, we had a visitor sitting between the trees
After lunch, we took the track that follows Mickey Creek to where it joins Warrumbah Creek.
Platypuses, turtles and eastern water dragons inhabit these pools.
Fresh wattles grow along the path
Swamp wallabies, eastern grey kangaroos and pretty-faced wallabies cross the path.
Day 5: Thursday, 25 June
Carnarvon Gorge - Roma
Our last morning at Carnarvon Gorge Lodge
After a farewell breakfast, we left paradise and headed off towards Roma.
Leaving Carnarvon Gorge behind us
Auf Wiedersehen...
Roma
The Lenroy Slab Hut offers a glimpse of a very different lifestyle. Built in 1893 near Hodgson by John Thomas Keegan, the son of a transported Irish convict, the hut was home to Keegan, his wife Harriet and their 9 children.
It is constructed from adze-cut rough slabs of local cypress pine, a termite-proof timber, and the original roof was box-tree bark, tied down in round-timber rafters with greenhide strips.
In 1894, the bark was replaced by galvanised iron, some of which still remains over the verandahs today. Instead of nails, pieces of wire were driven into the holes made with a 'gimlet', and bent over; even railway spikes were utilised.
Originally, the floor was of packed earth, which was removed when sawn timber was available for flooring.
Lenroy Hut was transported to Roma in 1980 and later moved to its present location.
Roma Visitor Information Centre
Roma suffered from a lack of reliable surface water since its establishment. During the search for artesian water, hydrocarbons were discovered beneath Roma. In 1897, the Queensland Government commenced water drilling operations. They did encounter artesian water, but not enough to supply the town. In 1900, Australia's first natural gas strike was in Roma. The anticipated gas supply could not be controlled due to the crude technology of the time. A change in wind direction carried the gas to the nearby wood-burning steam boiler that operated the drilling plant, where it promptly ignited. The fire destroyed the drilling plant and, after 7 weeks of spectacular display, was eventually extinguished using 'The Snuffer', a suspended metal hood.
Many drilling attempts followed until they struck oil, but operations ceased in 1941.
'Purest oil ever to come from a bore anywhere in the world!'
These bottles hold the very first samples extracted by the Roma Oil Company in 1927. This oil was so pure that it could be used immediately in vehicles until an unexpected explosion put a swift end to that practice.
After the Second World War, modern diesel-powered drilling devices were used, and large amounts of natural gas were discovered. 'Roma Power Station' was Australia's first commercial gas project, commissioned in 1961, and produces electricity from local natural gas piped directly from the field. In 1969, the Wallumbilla-to-Brisbane natural gas pipeline was commissioned, and it still supplies gas to Brisbane and Gladstone from local and far-western Queensland.
perched on this platform, derrickmen wrangled & tripped 10m long metal pipes
EMSCO Rig 41.5 m
Below, a blue colour you can't miss in this landscape 😍The Roma Blocks Oil Company purchased the American-built EMSCO rig in 1928. It was transported by rail to Roma in 1929. Between 1929 and 1941, the steam-operated rig drilled four holes within 16 km of Roma.
The difference between a T32 and EMSCO Rig - both were capable of drilling 1524 metres, but EMSCO took 118 days to drill 1116 m, while T32 took 7 days to drill 1200 m.
The 400 m Big Rig Tower
We did use the stairs - going down
On the top platform
Hydrogeology - Roma
Since the 1960s, the local oil and gas industry has played a major role in Roma's growth and the development of a multi-billion-dollar industry for Queensland. The majority of Coal Seam Gas activities are within the Surat Basin of the Maranoa and Western Downs area.
Bungil Creek is a 233 km watercourse that descends from the Great Dividing Range. It's an intermittent creek, varying from a trickle to a torrent. It has flooded to a height of up to 7.6 m during storms.
Bungil Creek
A tree in the creek
Roma's water is sourced from aquifers (layers of rock that hold groundwater) that are part of the world's largest underground water systems. The Great Artesian Basin holds 65 m gigalitres of water or about 130,000 Sydney Harbours. Aquifers and aquitards (compacted layers that restrict water flow) make up the Basin.
Coal Seam Gas is now the dominant energy source in Australia. It is extracted from the subsurface through a structurally sound, cement-cased borehole drilled to the required depth. Any water contained in the coal seams is pumped to the surface to reduce any groundwater pressure. Gas and water are then separated on the surface into different pipelines. Gas is piped to a processing plant, and water is transferred for treatment; the treated water can be used for crop irrigation and dust suppression or reinjected into aquifers.
Before, during and after drilling wells, oil and gas companies are obligated to assess, benchmark and monitor water bores on their 'tenure'. Hundreds of monitoring points exist across Queensland, helping map the basin as a whole and track industry impact. Almost all water extracted from the Basin is treated to meet strict water quality standards and beneficially used for agriculture, industry and managed aquifer recharge. (The 'Almost' in this blurb is a bit of a concern.)
How did RMN slip into this space?
You may remember my hint above about another feature of this amazing Azure Ark: a built-in lift. The platform slides smoothly out of the side, ensuring a safe, steady ride down to the ground floor and a comfortable transition back to bus floor level. Once the passenger is safely seated, the lift effortlessly retracts and folds away, completely out of sight. It is a brilliant, seamless piece of engineering.
Roma Saleyards
Roma Saleyards is Australia's marketplace of choice, with 2,872,657 head of cattle valued at $2,927,292,482 sold through the yards from 2014 to 2024.
Our guide Lloyd is explaining the finer details of cattle sales
The Stud Stock Selling Arena attracts stud vendors from far and wide. Stud bulls are purchased for breeding purposes and sold as dollars per head. They can weigh over a tonne and can sell for over $100,000 per animal. Some have sold for over a quarter of a million dollars.
Situated on almost 50 hectares, the Saleyards are ideally positioned to take advantage of the rich pastoral region of the surrounding land. Beef production is one of the Maranoa's leading primary industries.
Auctions are conducted every Tuesday commencing at 8 am. Up to 12,000 head of cattle can be sold in a single day. The facility is European Union-accredited, which guarantees full traceability of all animals through the National Livestock Identification System.
The Saleyards attract producers from across the country, with cattle regularly sold from New South Wales, South Australia, the Northern Territory, and across Queensland.
From Central Queensland to Southern New South Wales, a network of stock routes leads to the Roma Saleyards. Colloquially, these routes are known as the 'Long Paddock'. Droving the 'Long Paddock' has been an important feature of life on the land since the 19th century, enabling the movement of herds from one region to another.
After this eventful day, we checked into Roma Outback Explorers Inn, an amazing facility with so many units that our unit was number 322.
Before dinner at the Explorers Restaurant, we were impressed by the reknowned Roma Sculptures Outback exhibition.
Roma's bottletree landmark
RNM sitting the Greg Dachs' entry The Digital Orphan
RNM worried someone might want his seat, alas - all good - no worries
All made of tool things
Winds of Change (Jamie Sargeantson)
Would you believe Jamie is only 14 years old, creations made with forks
RNM trying bird talk
RNM can't help himself
So, cute. If they didn't have the red sticker, I would have bought them
Farewell Sculptures Out Back
Day 6: Friday
Roma - Home
We said a fond goodbye to our fellow travellers and headed home with hearts full of memories. From the stunning, unique landscapes to the wonderful company and flawless organisation, every minute detail made us feel safe and special. After breakfast, we had morning tea and lunch at Oakey RSL, where we watched the Socceroos play against Paraguay on big screens.
Leaving Oakey after lunch, Geoff advised us that we would be arriving at Roma Street at 4:40 pm. Guess what, we arrived at 4:35. I don't know how he did it; the traffic was pretty hectic driving on the Western Freeway through peak hour. But, he did.
