In April 2019, we, that is my husband Geoff and I, returned from a wonderful eight-day cruise entitled 'Greek Island Cruising (Antiquity to Byzantium)'. At Marina Zea near Athens we embarked M/S Galileo, a sailing yacht moving under engine power that caters for 30 to 50 passengers.
Before departure on day One we enjoyed a welcome drink and met captain Vassilis, tour director Joseph, our accompanying archaeologist Jenny, a very friendly crew, and forty fellow passengers. The majority came from the US, others from Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Austria, England and Estonia. Our cabin was more spacious than expected, plus, it was tidied twice a day by Natalia. I would like to point out that this was not because we are particularly messy, no, everybody got the same service, and that included a little chocolate on your pillow. Under the sweet we found a copy of The Variety Times, which informed us about the following day’s itinerary, mealtimes and cocktail of the day.
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| Herlinde in front of M/S Galileo |
Our first dinner, my oh my, that was the beginning of the end of my diet. The chef presented us with fabulous meals, delicious freshly sourced local Greek produce with many international cuisine options. If you try to stick to a diet, I would refrain from doing this cruise. Sadly, by the end of this trip I was unable to fit into the neatly tailored trousers that I had bought for a slimmer self in Athens’ Plaka. Alas, the delightful memories of what we saw and experienced make up for it.
Because of inclement weather our captain decided to do the cruise in reverse, meaning that instead of travelling east around the Peloponnese, we set out west and travelled through the Isthmus of Corinth in daylight. The canal is 6.3 kilometres in length and saves the 400-kilometre-long journey around the Peloponnesus. At 21 metres width it is only accessible to smaller vessels. Even though the tyrant Periander proposed the project of building a canal in the 7th century BC, and the Roman Emperor Nero had work commenced around 67 AD, it took the years between 1881 and 1893 to complete it. We felt quite privileged to be on one of the few of the 11,000 ships that voyage annually through this waterway at sunrise. Night travel is the usual itinerary.
On day Two Jenny escorted us on a 25 min bus ride from Itea to Delphi, which is surrounded by slender pine trees. This once wealthy site accommodated visitors from across Greece who came to worship the god Apollo and who, like Oedipus, sought the Oracle's advice. Today you can still absorb the serene atmosphere of Athena Pronaia's sanctuary, the Castalian Spring, the gymnasium, Apollo's Temple, the Treasury and the stadium. We also visited the fabulous Museum where Jenny gave a running commentary on the rare collection of archaic sculptures, like the twin Kouroi, in the shape of stylised Egyptian statues, the bronze Charioteer and the stunningly handsome Antonoos. We marvelled at the friezes depicting heroic folklore and the wafer-thin gold-leaf artefacts. Geoff and I walked the 20 min down past flowering apple trees to the three remaining columns of Tholos before boarding the bus back. Our thirst for serious Greek antiquities had received its first dose of nourishment.
Day Three we travelled from Katakolo through lush green vegetation to one of the most important archaeological sites in the world - ancient Olympia. This birthplace of the Games was also the greatest sanctuary in the worship of Zeus. We strolled past flowering cherry trees, through former temples whose numerous columns had survived the ravages of time and earthquakes. Evidence suggests that some form of games was held during Mycenean times (11th-12th centuries BC). The first recorded Olympics took place in 776 BC and continued without interruption for 1000 years. What a spectacular feeling to stand (not bend and run as some energetic individuals did), on the racetrack of the stadium that is more than 2,000 years old. During our visit to the Olympia Museum we marvelled at the perfectly proportioned marble statue of Hermes, the incredible body of Nike, whose head is unfortunately missing her face, and treasures like Militiades’ bronze helmet from 490 BC. After absorbing the ground on which the cradle of team sport, unity, world peace and ethos originated, we headed for lunch and a tasting of local cuisine.
Fortunately, our hosts don’t represent the typical Oedipean Greek tragedy of antiquity but a modern love story. Girl from Sweden arrives in Greece in search of something. Meets handsome Greek, love sparks the air, they get married, open a restaurant and live happily ever after. Though that is not the end, because we had a home cooked meal with wine and a yummy desert in their charming establishment. Greek people are generally very friendly, they seem to be happy despite their economic woes. Their company conveys a deep sense of living in the present, enjoying food, song, music, and a glass of ouzo or other beverage that digest the food and enhance the mood. Perhaps this goes back to before the birth of Athenian democracy when, according to our tour director, Greeks worshipped many gods but did not believe in an afterlife. Hence, they derived democracy, a system that would ensure fairness in the present life. Yes, Joseph, I am convinced!
Day Four we left the port of Pylos on Navarino Bay, where important naval battles took place. In antiquity the Spartans fought the Athenians. In modern times a fleet of Europeans defeated the Ottomans which resulted in the newly formed independent Greek state in 1828. Our first stop was the Palace of king Nestor, the wisest of kings, who joined Jason and the Argonauts in his quest for the Golden Fleece. This best-preserved Mycenaean palatial complex of the Late Bronze Age (ca 1680-1200 BC) is now safely housed under a huge roof. We were able to clearly distinguish the Royal Chambers with the Throne Room from the wine cellars, the storage rooms and the workshops. The lack of fortification and weaponry suggest a non-military character. This is supported by the important finds of the Linear B tablets that yield information about the state’s economic prosperity. I got an eerie tinkle while absorbing the sight of an extremely well-preserved clay bathtub with its ornamental scrolls.
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| Nestor’s bathtub |
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| Methonie octangualar Fort |
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| Greek dancing on M/S Galileo |
Day Five we went from Gythio, which was inhabited during prehistoric times, to cross the windswept Mani Peninsula and visited Diros with its spectacular 6 km cave of underground lakes. An oarsman rowed us quietly in a small boat that takes four passengers through the wonder of stalactites and stalagmites.
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| Herlinde and Geoff in Diros Cave |
Occasionally we had to dip our heads to avoid contact with one of those marvels. Knowing that the fossilised bones of panthers, hyenas, lions, deer, ferrets and hippopotami had been found here added to our sense of awe.
After a short stroll through nearby Areopolis we set sail and arrived at 10 pm, in what turned out to be one of my favourite places, the medieval fortified Venetian town of Monemvasia.
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| Monemvasia Square |
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| View from Monemvasia Bistro |
The deep blue that only the Aegean can offer surrounds your every gaze. We walked halfway up to the castle to an ever more beautiful vista. However, sorry to admit, the aroma of coffee wafted up the stoned walls and semi-circled rusty coloured roof tiles, making us forget the remaining climb and instead forced our steps into a beautiful bistro with the most magic views and delicious coffee.
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| Herlinde having coffee at Monemvasia Bistro |
We had already reached the entrance arch, when on impulse I asked Geoff to wait, as I do so often, and dashed back to one of the artisan windows, where, in passing, some blue sparkles set in silver had caught the corner of my left eye. Well, what can I say, I have now, set in silver panels, the colours of the Aegean: the azure blue sea, the sun -gold at midday and crimson when setting. It was also lovely to meet the artist who captured the colours that will always remind me of this magical place. That night we were treated to the Captain’s Cocktail and Dinner Party.
An occasion to don the high heels and boa and enjoy the international company around us. While this was happening, we docked at the other special place in my heart – Nafplio, which we explored after dinner. It was the first Capital of modern Greece. The old town lures the visitor to its colourful market squares, while gently lapping waters beckon for a dip. Here again, I asked my poor suffering darling to wait, you see shops are open till very late. A batwing shaped top had caught my right eye. What is so predominant in Greece? Olives! I had already bought some oil and soap; so, this olive coloured, and note, loose fitting top, was bound to enrich my fantastic memories. Convinced of my logic I bought it.
On the morning of day Seven we drove to Ancient Epidaurus, where we walked in the grounds of the birthplace of Apollo’s son Asclepius. The Asclepieion was known throughout antiquity as a healing place. Ill people from all over the Greek world came for treatment which consisted of a holistic approach that combined the physical healing of the sanctuary with the spiritual of the theatre that dates to the 4th century BC. The climb up the many steps to the top of the arena, without the wafting aroma of coffee, was a worthy challenge enabling us to absorb the vast space that seats up to 15,000 spectators. I regret that I did not stand in the centre, as the theatre is renowned for its extraordinary acoustics, to recite a poem that Geoff wrote for me some years ago ‘When I was young, I didn’t know I’d just begun, to live a life so full, everything I did was fun, a red flag flapping at a bull...’. It is obvious that we need to accomplish this task on a return visit!
At mid-morning we took a short drive to Mycenae. This ancient city state thrived between 1650-1100 BC. We walked through the famous Lion Gate, along the Cyclopean walls and traced the steps of Agamemnon’s Palace. The view stretched over the beautiful fertile countryside of Argolis up to the sea. A visit to the Museum to appreciate the possible belongings of this king ended this excursion. In the evening we had our disembarkation briefing, cocktails and our, yes, last supper. Time to exchange addresses with new friends made. After breakfast the next morning we boarded the taxi to our next destination.
At mid-morning we took a short drive to Mycenae. This ancient city state thrived between 1650-1100 BC. We walked through the famous Lion Gate, along the Cyclopean walls and traced the steps of Agamemnon’s Palace. The view stretched over the beautiful fertile countryside of Argolis up to the sea. A visit to the Museum to appreciate the possible belongings of this king ended this excursion. In the evening we had our disembarkation briefing, cocktails and our, yes, last supper. Time to exchange addresses with new friends made. After breakfast the next morning we boarded the taxi to our next destination.
I would like to thank Peregrine and the various museums visited for the historical and statistical data. Big thanks to Hannah from Global Journeys for organising everything to run so smoothly. We had a simply wonderful time, beautiful memories and left with a wholesome nourishment of Greek antiquities and culture.
copyright © herlinde cayzer
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