Two weeks’ ago, out of the blue I received a phone call from my son in Darwin asking if I were available to teenage sit my two granddaughters. Available?? I was ready, excited, and had my bags packed in no time for the flight.
Travelling into the NT from Queensland still required a permit. Once that was completed, I was met by my son at the airport, contrary to my last clandestine visit, which was a successful Ta da! Here I am! Happy Birthday! surprise. I don’t think I will ever forget the fantastic reaction when I appeared unexpectedly on the doorstep. Now again it was a wonderful reunion with many hugs and my boundless marvelling at the girls’ growth.
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On Mother’s Day we went to beautiful Cullen Bay, an extremely popular spot judging by the number of cars. Thus, we were not surprised to witness a most spectacular sunset over Darwin Harbour. People were picnicking near the water, but I was treated to a Greek restaurant which served a delicious array of traditional meze platters. Of course, I had to have Baklava for dessert while the girls indulged in Turkish delight. |
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| me and my girls |
From the next day I was in charge, driving the girls to and from school, to netball, and the after-school learning program Kumin. A concept originally as unfamiliar to me as driving Laura's, my daughter-in-law’s big four-wheel drive called Beast, when I am used to my tiny Smart, called Sweetie. I am, however, proud to say that I managed to get the hang of both in no time.
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| yummy afternoon tea |
One day I
ventured into town and visited the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern
Territory. I was immediately enthralled by the Centralian Senior College
student Muhammad Hassan’s Chicken 2020, the winner of the Art
Educators of the Northern Territory Award in the Visual Art – Art – Practical
category.
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| Chicken 2020 |
My expectation to
find a painting by Albert Namatjira was satisfied. His painting Mt
Hermannsburg 1944 is a watercolour on bean wood. I immersed myself in that landscape,
it exudes a beauty so different to those of Europe and I decided to visit the
Red Centre in the not-too-distant future.
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| Mt Hermannsburg 1944 |
Albert Namatjira was introduced to watercolour painting at Hermannsburg, which is depicted in this painting with the James Range in the distance. During the 1940s several prominent artists visited Central Australia, including the outstanding exponent of modernism, Max Dupain, who was sent to the NT to photograph local life and the landscape. His silver gelatin photographs take their space between Grace Cossington Smith and Sidney Nolan.
I was struck by
Charlie Numbulmoore’s Wandjina 1970, earth pigments on compressed
fibreboard.
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Wandjina 1970 |
Numbulmoore’s Wandjina figures remain relatively enigmatic, given little information was recorded at the time of their implementation. Often capturing the Wandjina’s head and upper torso, these startling figures are distinguished by their deep piercing eyes surrounded by graceful lashes. The solid black oval form on the chest of the Wandjina is said to depict the sternum/heart or a pearl shell pendant.
Apart from an array of fabulous indigenous art and handy works, there is a dedicated space to Cyclone Tracy, an intriguing Maritime Gallery, a photo-documented history of the Northern Territory, display cases of local shells, birds, fauna, and the taxidermied Sweetheart, a large five metre estuarine crocodile weighing 780 kg.
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| Sweetheart, crocodylus porosus |
Sweetheart gained notoriety in the 1970s by attacking aluminium dinghies at a popular Darwin fishing spot. On at least two occasions the boat occupants were tipped into the water, fortunately, no one was hurt.
After immersing
myself in so many interesting creative objects, I ventured to the Café and
ordered coffee and a small piece of cake, withstanding the temptation to have a
double size Apple Danish – everything is big in the NT. I found a peaceful spot
on the veranda overlooking the bay. The temperature was a tolerable 33 degrees
without humidity. I felt myself being in a tropical paradise. All I needed
was a hammock, a glass of bubbly, the sound of smooth jazz wafting through
the airwaves and I happily succumbed to the Territory's laid back atmosphere.
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| view from the veranda cafe |
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| Darwin beach |
From where I sat the perspective of the view to my right reminded me of Sidney Nolan’s Tennant Creek 1949, an oil on board.
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| Tennant Creek 1949 |
In 1949 Sidney Nolan flew over the Northern Territory with aviator Eddie Connellan, stopping off at different centres, including Tennant Creek. In this work Nolan creates the mystery and mood that he made famous in the Kelly series of 1946-47. The limited colour palette that Nolan uses is commanding, giving the image a cinematic quality and creating the sense that this quiet town is also the backdrop to an epic tale.
I could have easily spent the rest of the day in these enchanting surroundings, but as it was nearing end of school hours, I hastened to fulfil the purpose of my visit.
Netball was next on
the agenda. I enjoyed seeing many girls, and some boys, having fun while
playing a game in good team spirits.
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| promoting fitness |
Another stunning sunset complemented my famous and historically praised spaghetti that day.
Like all good things, my time to return home arrived all too quickly. As I boarded the plane, I pondered Banjo Patterson’s words:
‘Someday it may be
civilised and spoilt, but up to the present it has triumphantly overthrown all
who have tried to improve it. It is still the Territory.’
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